As Kästner quite rightly notes, the great river, which ahead of St. Goarshausen reaches its narrowest navigable point at a width of 145 metres, has largely lost its horror today. Nevertheless, a hike over the Loreley plateau is one of the scenic highlights on the Rheinsteig route between Wiesbaden and Bonn. During October there are many magnificent autumn leaves to be seen along the way and also some surprising things to experience.

Kaub am Rhein is, with less than 900 inhabitants, the smallest town in Rhineland-Palatinate and also the southern gateway to the municipality of the Loreley. You can get there by train or car in less than two hours. Arriving in Kaub am Rhein you will firstly admire the view of the Pfalzgrafenstein castle prominently located in the river. A small ferry can take you across. But it is better to follow the blue and white signs in the middle of the pedestrian zone pointing to the Rheinsteig.

The path leads up some narrow steps and past some private houses up a slope to Dörscheid. Then it leads into the vineyards and meadows high above the valley. On the other side of the river, the town of Oberwesel with its city wall passes by, and you can see St. Martin's Church and Rheinfels castle high up on the hill - today a luxury hotel.

After five kilometres, the Rheinsteig finally lives up to its name (it translates as Rhine climb). Over slate cliffs, where ropes provide necessary support, the Rheinsteig leads to the first exposed view of the Rhine valley. From here, the river winds its way through some particularly narrow bends.

From Kammereck, where the brave people stand on a rectangular slate spur with no railings a hundred metres above the valley, you can already see the Loreley rock. By the way: it wasn't the absence of blondes combing their hair that reduced the number of accidents, but rather the blasting which was carried out in the riverbed in the 1930s. As Kästner put it: "We are changing. The boatsmen included. The Rhine is regulated and contained. Time passes. You don't die while sailing just because a blond woman is combing her hair all the time".

Shortly before the actual plateau, Hof Leiselfeld, located directly along the route, invites you to take a contemplative rest with a glass of wine or a slice of cake. The plateau itself is then full of hustle and bustle, with an open-air stage, summer toboggan run and a restaurant, which is currently undergoing extensive construction work to make it suitable for the hoards. Fortunately, the vantage point is already finished and allows tired walkers to quickly descend stairs in the direction of St. Goarshausen.

The others continue walking through the forest and past Burg Katz. Is this a castle with medieval charm? Hardly. This property in a dream location is the work of Cologne architects Streitner & Below from the 19th century. Today it belongs to the Japanese. The first owners of the original Burg Katz, the Counts of Katzenelnbogen, also gave the next castle along the route - which belonged to the Archbishops of Trier - its disdainful nickname: Maus, in reference to the “mouse” castle being eaten by the “cat”, Burg Katz. But the mockery was unfounded: The Counts of Katzenelnbogen died out, and Burg Maus is still almost an original. But it is one that stands empty. The Falknerhof falconry is looking for a new tenant. Anyone with "perfect financial conditions" and can coincidentally handle birds of prey, can stay right there, an expose on the internet indicates.

But for everyone else, after enjoying the sights of three castles and walking up and down for almost 20 kilometres, the train is waiting in St. Goarshausen. After a good six hours you are relieved – of at least 1300 calories.

More information (in German only): www.rheinsteig.de

(Original text: Martin Wein, Translation: Caroline Payne)